Welcome back.

Today you'r going to meet someone special.

Someone that people around here consult when there's a cooking question, a pastry problem, or even a crisis of confidence in need of a good pep talk.

Azadig Bidanian, she embodies all the qualities of a wise female figure.

She might remind you of your grandmother, a confidante that you have someone whose house you visit when you need a serene oasis from life, a place you end up living so full and not just in a food way.

I'm talking nourishment for mind, body and soul.

She always shares these little pearls of wisdom that lift me up and give me fresh perspective on life and its many vicissitudes.

And in today's lesson, she's sure to share some with all of you.

she's going to be showing me how to make her family's village choreg recipe.

A recipe rich with history.

So friends, meet Azadig!

Hi, I'm Julianne, but you can call me Jul.

And this is Juls Armenian Kitchen.

The recipes of my childhoo are beginning to fade with time.

So I'm on a mission to learn the secrets and stories behind great Armenian home cooking.

The way it's always been passed down in family kitchens right here in the Central Valley.

I'll learn how these proud Armenian families built their version of the American Dream in ways you won't find written down anywhere else, and I'll be stepping right into their kitchens to see how it's really done.

They'll be great food and a few unexpected moments along the way.

We're going to have a delicious time.

Production.

Funding for Juls Armenian Kitchen is provided by Fowler Packing Company.

Three generations of family farming in California's Central Valley bringing peel, Citrus and Samson's grapes to families nationwide.

More information at FowlerPacking.com.

Ohanyans of Fresno.

For more than 40 years, Ohanian has preserved Armenian culinary traditions through hand-crafted products rooted in heritage quality and craftsmanship.

What began in the Central Valley is now shared nationwide.

For more information, visit Ohanyans.com.

Today we're meeting with Azadig Bidanian, who will be showing me her family recipe for village Choreg.

A pastry with history as sweet bread with soul Azadig is as a skilled artisan and successful businesswoman who never says it can't be done.

She's taught me so much already.

I feel incredibly lucky tha she's taken me on as a student, and I can't wait for today's lesson.

But by now you know that I never show up empty handed, so I brought gifts.

Spoiler alert it's chocolate.

Chocolate.

Chocolate is my favorite.

Everybody loves chocolate.

Love chocolate.

Now Oh, wow.

It's so beautiful.

Thank you.

You're welcome.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Azadig explained to me that in Anjar the village shes from, Its customary to open someones gift in front of them.

So we opened those chocolates right up.

You said you were from Anjar.

Yes.

And in Armenian, if you're from somewhere you put the TSI at the end and.

Anjar tsi TSI, T-S-I And that means someone from there, from there.

So I'm a Fresnan.

You are Fresno-tsi in Armenia I would be a Fresno-tsi.

And you are Anjar-tsi And there you have it Our first lessons on the books.

And now it's time to get cooking.

We're starting with milk, eggs, butter and flour.

Well just.

Add every, all the liquids in here now.

But, the yeast.

Okay.

We're going to ad all the liquids minus the yeast, which looks like it's proofed pretty well.

And the egg.

And now this.

This is not even the full recipe right?

This is the full recipe.

Oh, we're doing the full one.

Because it's very hard to cut it in half.

Thats a big pot.

I think we might feed a whole village with this one.

But lets get to the basics.

Armenian Choreg is a sweet bread youll usually find at breakfast or along side an afternoon coffee Its a staple on the Easter table but also enjoyed all year long.

This version, though it's a little different.

It's lighter, with less fat and fewer calories than the traditional kind.

And that's because it was born out of necessity But more on that later.

I love that you're using your hands.

Well, you have to use your hand.

Why?

Hand is the taste.

almost every one o my guest cooks use their hands to make something and said something similar.

And I say, if the hand is the taste and let the mouth be the judge.

This is mahaleb.

Okay.

Middle eastern thing.

Okay.

I'm not sure that I know what this is.

We'll have to look it up.

It's the seed of a cherry.

The seed of black cherry.

Really?

And then I'll start.

I have 5 pounds of flour here, which is about 16 cups.

I don't add it all at once.

Okay Because I don't know, something.

Let's take more or less right.

Oh, you want me to hold it?

Sifted the flour?

Okay.

I like to sift the flour in advance.

Yes, because you never know what's in the flour.

sometimes.

I would just start with this, okay.

And I would leave about two cups aside.

And then now I add the mahaleb which is the seasoning just of it.

And I'm just doing this a bit now I had the yeast.

I'm thinking about how cool it would be i your grandma could see you now.

What do you think she would think?

Oh, I don't know.

She was.

She passed.

My grandma passed away in 1992, age 93.

Wow.

She was 93.

My mom was 97.

Your mom was 97.

Oh, you have good genes.

Okay, I'm going to be here forever.

I think that's pretty good.

I think that's really good news, actually.

I bet she was proud of you because you had your ow business, too.

And everything.

I did have my own businesses.

it was my dream.

It seems like maybe they.

Was it common to be a woman in business at that time?

A woman owned business?

No, it wasn't right.

They, I my big contract was was with Indian brothers.

One of them told me.

What makes you thin to get into something like this?

It was big.

What makes you think that yo can manage something like this?

I said I had nothing, and I didn't expect anything.

Oh, that's interesting, I had nothing, and I. Didn't expect to get rich.

Yeah.

So interesting.

You had nothing to lose in that regard.

You had nothing to lose.

Finally, its time for me to pitch in by adding in the vegtable oil.

This will make our dough soft and moist.

You can help me I can't I don't want to ruin it.

You know how I get.

Not the whole thing?

Just a little bi at a time.

On your hands, okay?

Like that?

Yeah.

The last time I was in the kitche with Azadig, I was so panicked.

And she kept saying, you can do it.

You can do it.

Calm down.

And you taught me how to roll kurabia, right?

And I didn't get it right until she walked away and wasn't looking.

And then I got it right.

Remember?

Yeah, I got really nervous.

I did, and I said, it's not going to work.

And you said, oh, well, it works.

And then you said, you can't ruin it, right?

You can't, you can't.

Every mistake is a design.

Every mistake is a design.

Oh, man We need to put that on a poster.

Do lots of, knitting.

Yeah, and they said every mistake is a design.

I love Azadigs philosophy.

She's always so encouraging.

And who better to take the advic that every mistake is a design than from the master seamstress herself?

Looks like you're really needing it.

And as you do.

It gets softer.

Okay?

I use the oil as I go.

Okay.

You want a little more?

Little?

We're going to use all.

Okay.

But you just do little bits at a time.

A bit and.

A little bit more.

Okay.

And what kind of oil is this?

Oh it's vegetable oil.

Oh it's vegetable.

Okay.

I was wondering why Azadig was being so thorough scraping the sides of her bowl and turns out theres some superstition there.

Has to do with something she once hear from a neighbor.

She had three boys, no girls.

And I helped her a lot.

She goes, if you're when you're doing something, you sloppy or not, you don't clean your pan.

Your fiance's going to be very ugly.

So.

So I dont want him to be ugly.

That's hilarious.

your fiancee is going to be ugly.

I don't want it to be ugly.

That's awesome.

Yeah.

No, we definitely don't wan any ugly Fiances around here.

We only want cute ones.

Yes.

That's so.

I keep doing this.

Very good, very good.

Let's bring some cute, attractive fiances around.

Oh, yeah.

we continued kneeding and adding oil until the dough is nice and soft Its important to not rush this part.

This is how I always.

Well, that' what they told me make a cross.

Oh.

How beautiful.

Who taught you to make a cross?

My grandma.

Oh, gosh, she always mad a cross when she made the dough.

Any dough?

This is ready to go.

It's going to take about two and a half to three hours to rise and, probably longer if it's winter.

You have to be patient with this.

Go ahead and do something.

Come on.

Rise Rise.

Go shopping.

wash the dishes, do laundry.

When we were kids and we had to wait for it to rise and we went crazy at my grandma's house, we were like, oh, grandma's ready yet?

So this was very nice.

Now weve got to give our doug a good amount of time to rise.

Make sure to cover the bowl and stash it somewhere safe.

My grandma covered it with a clean dish towel or or even sometimes a blanket.

In typical Azadig fashion, we used a plastic bag that we would reuse later.

I love how her kitchen embodies the old addage, Waste not.

Want not.

Did you ge mad when those guys said to you.

What makes you think I never, I never?

Nothing bothers.

me, I just ignore people.

Oh.

You're like a serious teacher right now.

Like, yeah.

You don't care, do you know, that's what like, That's okay with me.

Because do you think, like, I'm going to show you.

No.

Well, no I don't like to see the point.

You don't like.

Do what I do.

Do I do what I do?

It's interesting.

You're so self-directed.

I do what I do.

She says if they believe in me, fine.

If they don't believe in me, it's okay.

It's kind of giving the Let Them Theory by Mel Robbins, honestly,.

Azad doesn't need to prove a point.

She just believes in herself and proceeds accordingly.

And isn't that empowering?

Tha goes into the bedroom for now.

Now in the meantime we mixed together our egg wash.

To brush on the dough later.

We used one egg, 1 tablespoon of milk, a teaspoon of sugar and a dash of vanilla.

So Azadig, tell me about.

This sign in your kitchen.

It says, I'm sorry I don't remember thi recipe calling for your opinion.

What is that?

Well, that sign came from when I had my father's the 48 40th day, which is Memorial Day for us.

And I made the salad.

I put everything that has to g on the table with the dressing and everything.

Yeah.

And couple of days late my sister in law, my brother's wife called me, said that was not your salad.

What was that.

That everybody took that little.

Comments.

Comment a pinch of salt an it's like something different.

And then a few days later she said, did you go to your mailbox?

I said, no, she I went to the mailbox.

There was this notepad, which is that picture, 1950s ladies.

And it says, no, but I don't think anybody's asking your opinion.

And when my uncle passed away, they brought us his pictures, and I found that in it.

The pictures been taken 1988.

I was 40 years old.

In Palm Springs.

So there's a little sarcasm there.

It reminds me of that phrase that you taught me.

Chem gernar Never say Chem gernar Never, ever say it.

And what does it mean?

Never say, Chem Gernar.

Ner say Chalal.

Never say I can't do it and never say cant be done, can't be done.

It can be done.

Maybe you don't do it like everybody else does.

Or you do different way.

But never say it can be done.

It can be done.

I love how she said.

There's nothing that can't be done.

It can be done.

Maybe you don't do it like everyone else does it.

But you can find a way to get it done.

When I was a younger woma in my 20s, right out of college, working my first job, which ironically was in TV, I would often say I can't do it, and my boss would get so mad at me because of course I could.

And he knew that I could.

The problem was that I didn't have enough life experience to really believe in my abilities at that time.

I say less now in middle age, but that crisis of confidence still creeps up now and then.

And that's why, as a reminder, is so importan when that self-doubt creeps in.

She reminds us to believe in ourselves.

that we can always rise through our challenges just as our doe has risen.

So let's get back to that.

any dough that you touch which has yeast in it.

You have to wait at least 15 minutes when you, after you touch it.

So that it can come back up.

It will come back again.

I see okay.

it will relax So you're going to cut i now.

Now we're going to cut it.

This is your baby.

That's risen.

Baby.

It's risen.

And it's really nice.

And soft and delicious.

It really is.

Okay.

It's about two ounces.

If you want me to weigh it, I can.

lets weigh it You want to weigh it.

Just for.

You really want to be on point.

Today?

Okay?

Okay.

Because in Armenian recipes, they never tell you how much to put in, how to cut.

they just, Oh Guhdor Muh What what is a Guhdor Muh?

Well, this is this is a piece and this is a piece.

Exactly.

If you haven't done it before, you don't know how big.

Welcome to my world.

Yeah.

Okay.

I'm always struggling because I read these recipes.

Recipes?

They don't tell me what I need to know.

Yeah, that's actually the whole reason why I'm doing this projec is because I'm trying to learn, and it's people like you wh are gracious enough to teach me.

One time somebody gave me an Armenian recipe, which is in, Orange County.

ARS ARS is.

Armenian relief Society.

It says, put it i a tray and bake it, and I call.

Right.

I said, what tray?

15 inch, 20 inch, five inch what tray?

Well, the tray.

Which one?

Right.

Right, right.

Glass tray.

Baking paper, ten inches.

Five inches.

Look at this is two ounces.

You knew it was two ounces didn't you.

Yeah.

It's exactly right.

Fabulous.

Okay.

It was at this point, Azadig asked for my help again, And the nerves of messing something up started to hit.

I'm nervous again.

No, don't.

I can do.

It.

Hold and pinch.

There you go.

Can I weigh it and see how I did?

I think you have to.

I think you do.

I do.

Oh, I always think I can't with you.

And you always tell me that that's not good.

That's not even.

Right.

Okay.

we continued this process until we lost count along the way.

Also, Dick taught me this technique to easily roll the perfect balls and thats the best part of this show if you ask me.

Learning the secret tips.

Oh ya this is great!

What a great little technique.

Look at that.

It's perfect.

I can do this so you can use your hands.

This is great.

I love this brilliant.

Once were done We cover our balls with a plastic bag and leave them to rest another 15 minutes or so.

Azadig explained its becuase the gluten needs time to relax.

So itll be easier t roll and shape into our choreg Joyce talked about the inner workings of gluten too When we learned to make kufta.

and I must say, I really like learning these food facts.

Probably back in the day when schools taught home ec they they covered this kind of stuff but I never learned it.

At this point, we had some time to kill as we waited for our dough to rise Azadig had prepared a small snack for our crew.

Just a few salads, she said.

It was at this table that we learned the story behind the recipe for Village Choreg.

I mentioned earlier that Azadigs grandparents were from Musa Dagh, this is a very important place, and here's why.

During the 1915 Armenian Genocide, a time besieged with horror stories, there was also a powerful story of resistance when Armenian villagers famously retreate to their mountain of Musa Dagh rather than comply with the deportation orders that they knew to in fact be death sentences.

For 52 days, these villagers held out against repeated assaults until ultimately rescued by the French Navy.

It was called the Battle of Musa Ler in Western Armenian.

Musa Ler means Moses Mountain.

During the battle, the villagers made Heriseh which is a wheat and porridge stew that they cooked and served communally.

This is the food tha sustain them through the battle And Azadigs family was among them They went to Egypt, where they lived in refugee camps While in Egypt, they yearned for their homeland and would make Heriseh in honor of the time that they would return.

And four years later, they did.

Now it was under French administration, and they rebuilt their village life there.

But that revival was temporary, because in 1939, France ceded the territory back to Turkey, causing many Armenians to fear renewe persecution under Turkish rule.

So the French authorities organized and assisted their relocation into Lebanon, where a new settlement Anjar was created specifically for Musa Dagh Armenian and remained under French rule Azadigs grandparents and parent were uprooted yet again.

And it was very tough to survive in Anjar, especially their first winter there.

And many did not make it.

Sea Anjar sits in the Bekaa Valley and has a drier inlan landscape with flatter terrain.

It's a stark contrast to Musa Daghs dense Mediterranean coastal vegetation.

It was such a change and everything had to adapt, including their recipes.

And that's where the village Choreg was born.

Just do this.

It kind of make it a little bit longer.

Go forward and back.

Come back.

Oh, yeah.

I would say about ten inches.

Oh, look, she's even got a that's.

You're very efficient, you know.

It's about ten.

Inches.

Okay.

There you go.

Put it back together and push with your finger.

Why?

How come mine didn't go?

Very good.

Enough pressure on.

Oh, I didn't put enough pressure.

Okay.

Don't be too shy.

Oh, I'm thinking about the cookies we made.

And then I was using too much pressure at this.

That's a light touch.

That's a fancy cooking.

This is, peasant cooking, so you can't be very nice.

I see, okay.

There you go.

This is about this long.

Oh, my gosh, I'm only on my first one.

And I'm struggling here.

Okay, I'm going to get it.

Yeah.

That's it.

Yeah.

So about ten inches.

Okay.

And then right together.

And then you go.

Like.

This.

Like this.

Yeah.

And push it with your finger.

Okay, I did one.

if somebody is reading an Armenian recipe that means they never done it.

They've never seen anybody doing it.

Exactly.

So you have to go really, really detailed these things.

Something doesn't mean anything to you.

Exactly.

Have to, because they don't know.

They never see their grandmother doing it.

They've never seen their mother doing.

Yes, exactly.

isn't tha the thing about about details?

They're really important.

And we overlook them all the time.

Oh.

Mine's a little too small.

Now you have the option to roll some black sesame seeds into your dough here if you want to, which I really like.

Oh and remember the eggwash from earlier?

its time for us to brush it on to the top.

This is the makeup The make up.

And then we're going to bake it.

At what temperature?

For how long?

About ten minutes.

Ten.

15 minutes.

Probably ten 15 minutes at the bottom shelf.

And then we move this to the top.

We put the second one in the bottom.

And then until, all in all, like 20 minutes about.

Okay.

Well this is easy way to do the sesame.

There are lots of ways to do the sesame.

But for me I found tha this is the easy way to do it.

Nice.

Yum.

Okay.

Okay.

That goes in the oven.

All right.

So we rolled out or Choreg with some black seseame.

Sprinkled on some white sesame seeds.

And brushed them over with egg wash.

then threw them in the oven fo about 20 minutes at 350 degrees Leavin them a perfect golden delight.

Isn't it amazing how Azadig moves aroun so efficiently in her kitchen?

She was born with total congenital dislocated hips and has had periods in her life when she couldn't walk.

Punctuated by other times when successful surgeries gave her a chance to walk sometimes for years at a time.

As a child, her mom encouraged her to be strong, to find a way to manage in her life and tackle her dreams.

watching her wheel around her kitchen, knowing that she built her own enterprise and did everything completely independently in her life, and to see how much of a master she is at, the things she takes on.

All of it is living proof that what doesn't break you does make you stronger.

Smells of childhood.

So comforting.

So warm.

It's a powerful smell.

Well, we're here with the finished product.

It smells delicious.

The, the cherry.

The the pit of black cherry.

The pit of the black cherry is it creates this kind of aromatic.

It's called Mahaleb No.

Well, it's really good.

It smells delicious.

And it's got it creates distinct smell and also flavor.

I'm going to help myself is okay.

So.

I'm not so good.

See how it just comes apart?

Sweet.

May be sweet for you.

Amoush-ehla So we, we are going to have this recipe available on our website.

It'll be called Azadig Bidanians Village Choreg It'll be at Valley PBS.org.

Valleypbs.org/julsarmenian kitchen so that you can make it yourself.

But you have to have time when you've got to make sure and you've got to make sure to keep it warm.

It needs to be warm.

It's like a little baby.

You have to snuggle it up.

And, I want to thank you again for having us.

It was pleasure to have you.

recap we started by making our dough with milk, eggs, butter sugar, flour, mahaleb and yeast.

We left that to rise and made our egg wash with an egg, a tablespoon of milk, and a dash of vanilla.

Once our dough was ready, we portioned out two ounce pieces, form them into perfect circles, then left those to rest.

We learned a bit about Azadigs history, Then we came back to roll our dough into circles and brush them over with egg wash.

We sprinkled in some black and white sesame seeds before putting them in the oven for our final product.

And don't forget, you can follow along to the full recipe at valleypbs.org /julsarmeniankitchen when I leave her house, I feel so refreshed in mind and spirit and of course, body too, because of how much she feeds me.

Man, I am so glad we got to do that.

That was awesome.

Azadig is the best.

Don't you agree?

Well, there's more food to eat and more recipes to learn.

So onto my next kitchen.

That book club moment.

Want to learn more about Musa Dagh?

Well, my source was Franz Welford novel the 40 Days of Moussa dog was published in 1933.

And it's a really important book, not only because the story totally grips you, but also because it brought widespread international recognition to the Armenian Genocide at a time when history was repeating itself, as it so often does, Production.

Funding for Jewel's Armenian Kitchen is provided by Fowler Packing Company.

Three generations of family farming in California's Central Valley bringing peel, Citrus and Samson's grapes to families nationwide.

More information at Fowler Inc.com.

Ohanian to Fresno.

For more than 40 years, Ohanian has preserved Armenian culinary traditions through hand-crafted products rooted in heritage quality and craftsmanship.

What began in the Central Valley is now shared nationwide.

For more information, visit Ohanian SI.com.